Saturday, June 25, 2016

1973 Johnson 9.5: Drive shaft Stuck in the Crankcase



During a routine water impeller replacement, I discovered the above problem when the driveshaft remained up in the crankcase instead of dropping down with the lower unit.  After quick attempts to pull it free failed, I did some research online and in the manuals.  The only suggestion I could find was putting penetrating oil down the stuck driveshaft and attaching vice grips to the shaft, then hanging the whole works from the ceiling with a chain on the vice grips to pull it free.  Silly as this sounds, I tried it for two weeks, to no avail.  All I accomplished was saturating the points and coils in oil, but that is another story.

Here is what I did to get the driveshaft out:

First, I disassembled the motor down to access the point where the driveshaft enters the crankcase.  Make sure you wear safety glasses and gloves for this.  It is a big job, but critical as you need to get at the O ring around the driveshaft buried in there that is keeping the penetrating oil from getting to the splines of the driveshaft.  I made a small tool out of hardened brass to fit in the tight void around the driveshaft and cut up the O ring. 
I then let it sit a few more days, but It still did not come free for me, but may in other cases.

I then made the following Jig:  


You will need,

1. Three pieces of Oak, Hickory or a hard wood of the following dimensions: all with a 3/4 hole in the center for the driveshaft to fit through:
  • a. 27 1/2 x 4 1/2 x 1 1/2
  • b. 11 x 3 1/2 x 3/4
  • c. 18 x 3 3/4 x 1 1/2 with 1/4 x 1 steel attached to the bottom for extra support.




2. A piece of pine plywood cut to at lease one inch beyond the edge of the engine block with a 3/4 hole drilled in it for the driveshaft to fit through.  This piece needs to have a 2 1/4 round x 1/4 deep chamfer cut around the driveshaft hole to clear the pilot ring on the bottom of the block.




3.  3 big Vice Grips
4. 2 hydraulic jacks

Set up the jig as seen in the photos.  You can try to save your driveshaft by wrapping it in a towel, or attaching the vice grips in an area not vital to the operation away from any seals or the impeller, etc.
Once the shaft is free, clean up the driveshaft hole in the crankcase with oil and a wire brush, cotton swabs, etc to get all debris out.  The reason mine was stuck is, apparently whomever did the impeller service last had failed to properly grease the upper splines with the reccomended grease.  Please remember to do this upon reassembly to save yourself a lot of grief next time around.  Good luck.


 











Friday, July 10, 2015

Rebuilding the 1965 Johnson 9.5









Initially purchased this motor, again on craigslist, for $100 as a parts motor.  Previous owner said it had no spark.  No gas tank or hose.  Hood had received a fantastic rattle-can silver upgrade in the past.  She had good compression, no leaks in the lower unit, and was mostly complete.  I did use a few minor parts to rebuild the 68 Evinrude, but changed my mind, and replaced them.  I them pulled the flywheel, replaced the coils, condensers, and points.  Used the coil locating ring and timing tool purchased from franksoutboardtools.  Very good reproductions of the OMC tools.  Was able to get spark.  Installed new plugs and was able to get her to run, again poorly with the choke wide open.  Cleaned and rebuilt the carburetor,  Was able to get her to run properly and idle very well.  Dropped the lower unit, changed the impeller, impeller wear plate, impeller housing and water tube seal.  Runs like a champ.  Next, I cant leave it with the horrible silver paint job.  Started sanding it off, and new decals on the way from discontinueddecals.com.  New propeller (I acquired with a seized 1967 johnson 9.5 from craigslist for $60) installed.  Just need to work out a bug with the kill switch.

Thursday, July 9, 2015

Scrapping a 1964 Evinrude 9.5






















Another Craigslist purchase for $60.  Had a seized motor, plastic junk propeller, and looked like a wreck.  What it did have was a good front motor mount, and other parts I can use to keep the others running and start a parts inventory.  The motor became unstuck just as I was finishing the teardown.  Go figure.

Rebuilding the 1968 Evinrude










Finished the rebuild (for now) of the 68 Evinrude.  Rebuilt the carburetor with a BRP rebuild kit.  Solved her idling problem, but she was hardly pumping any water, and water was pouring out from under the shroud.  Also, gear oil leaking out of the exhaust.  Did some research and with help from chrysleroutboarddude on Youtube, new and used parts, and some OMC marine special tools, I rebuilt the lower unit completely.  Discovered that the "mechanic" the previous owner had used did some interesting repairs.  The water pump housing was from a 6 hp model, bored out with no seal on the top end, and the impeller was toast.  Lots of crud in the water tube and thermostat as well.  I tore the whole thing down.  The front weep hole on the lower unit case was completely solid with crud, and I had to drill it out.  Amazing that water didn't collect there and break it by freezing, Next, I sandblasted and repainted the case, propeller, and skeg.  All new shift shaft seals, clutch dog, impeller, impeller housing, wear plate, upper and prop shaft seals.  Thermostat was cleaned, tested, and whole water system cleaned.  New gasket made and thermostat reinstalled.  Front motor mount is broken, but this will be replaced this winter.  Tested successfully in a barrel, then taken up north to the clean waters of gods land, where she performed well after fine tuning the idling of her rebuilt carburator.  Turned out to be a nice motor.  More to come on that front motor mount...